The Real Tradition of Making Apple Butter in Appalachia

As fall settles over the hills of Appalachia, the air turns crisp, and the orchards are bursting with ripe apples. This is the time of year I look forward to most—when we gather to make apple butter, just like my granny used to.

Granny had a special liking for Crow Egg apples, which grew wild all over her farm. Their tartness was perfect for creating a thick, rich apple butter that was unlike anything you could buy in a store. I can still picture us in her backyard, setting up a big cast iron kettle over an open fire. The smell of wood smoke and apples mingled in the air, promising a day filled with hard work and good company.

Making apple butter was a communal effort. We’d all take turns stirring the pot, which was no small task. The mixture bubbled and popped, and the hours flew by as we chatted and caught up. The stirring was intense; you needed to keep it moving to prevent it from sticking, and it took real effort to get it just right.

What made Granny’s apple butter special was its unique texture and flavor. Unlike today’s overly sweet, runny varieties, hers was thick enough to need a spoon for scooping. Hense the name “apple butter” it was the consistency of butter. And no, it wasn’t jelly even thicker. It had a perfect balance of tartness from the Crow Egg apples, with just a hint of vanilla and a touch of cinnamon. It was comforting, warming, and felt like a hug in a jar.

After several hours of stirring and tasting, Granny would take a spoonful to test the thickness. If it held its shape and didn’t run, we knew we had succeeded. That moment was always a celebration, a sign that our hard work had paid off.

Though Granny has been gone now for 29 years, her apple butter tradition lives on in my heart and my family’s. These days, I often seek out that same rich flavor. Thankfully, I found a small farm run by an elderly couple who make apple butter just like Granny did. Their version is thick and flavorful, a rare find that brings back all those cherished memories.

When I spread it on warm biscuits or enjoy it by the spoonful, I’m reminded of those autumn days spent together, stirring and laughing, surrounded by family. Making apple butter is more than just a seasonal activity; it’s a way to keep the spirit of my granny alive and celebrate the flavors of our Appalachian roots.

-Tim Carmichael

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